Using a Multi-meter to check the CGs electrical pedestal
These guide lines are to help you understand the testing of a power pedestal. If you have any problems or concerns making these tests please contact a professional electrician.
Your safety is most important.
Testing the pedestal is pretty easy and foolproof. I hope that I can explain this so it's understood. First, take a piece of paper and draw two separate circles. These will look like your 30 and 50 amp pedestal outlets. The 30 amp will have 3 slots that are at 2 o’clock (hot)/slanted 10 o’clock (neutral) /slanted and 6 o'clock (ground)/round hole. The 50 amp will have four slots with three blades at 9 o'clock (hot), 12 o'clock (neutral), 3 o'clock (hot) and a round hole at 6 o'clock (ground ).
Basic meter usage and Safety:
The Multi-meter has many functions. We are only going to use the AC (Alternating Current) function. Because the highest reading should be under 250 Volts AC I recommend setting the AC number above 300 for elimination of any errors. Remember DO NOT TOUCH the metal contacts when taking reading because it will BITE you. Always keep your fingers on the non-metalic portions of the leads.
First the 30 amp pedestal.
Set the Multi-meter selector to the AC voltage setting with the number higher than 300 volts AC (some meters will set themselves automatically/some meters require DC or AC selection). Take the two test leads from your meter which are color coded black and red. Put one lead in the 10 o'clock slot and one in the 2 o'clock slot of the outlet, it makes no difference which lead (red or black) is inserted into either slot. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 10 o'clock lead and insert it in the 6 o'clock slot leaving the 2 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. If it is, you have good power
Your safety is most important.
Testing the pedestal is pretty easy and foolproof. I hope that I can explain this so it's understood. First, take a piece of paper and draw two separate circles. These will look like your 30 and 50 amp pedestal outlets. The 30 amp will have 3 slots that are at 2 o’clock (hot)/slanted 10 o’clock (neutral) /slanted and 6 o'clock (ground)/round hole. The 50 amp will have four slots with three blades at 9 o'clock (hot), 12 o'clock (neutral), 3 o'clock (hot) and a round hole at 6 o'clock (ground ).
Basic meter usage and Safety:
The Multi-meter has many functions. We are only going to use the AC (Alternating Current) function. Because the highest reading should be under 250 Volts AC I recommend setting the AC number above 300 for elimination of any errors. Remember DO NOT TOUCH the metal contacts when taking reading because it will BITE you. Always keep your fingers on the non-metalic portions of the leads.
First the 30 amp pedestal.
Set the Multi-meter selector to the AC voltage setting with the number higher than 300 volts AC (some meters will set themselves automatically/some meters require DC or AC selection). Take the two test leads from your meter which are color coded black and red. Put one lead in the 10 o'clock slot and one in the 2 o'clock slot of the outlet, it makes no difference which lead (red or black) is inserted into either slot. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 10 o'clock lead and insert it in the 6 o'clock slot leaving the 2 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. If it is, you have good power
Now the 50 amp.
First step of test:
Set the Multi-meter selector to the AC voltage setting with the number higher than 300 volts AC (some meters will set themselves automatically/some require DC or AC selection). Take the two test leads from your meter which are color coded black and red. Put one lead in the 12 o'clock slot and one in the 9 o'clock slot of the outlet, it makes no difference which lead (red or black) is inserted into either slot. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 9 o'clock lead and insert it in the 3 o'clock slot leaving the 12 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. This has tested the hot legs with the neutral.
Second step of test:
Put one lead in the 6 o'clock slot and one in the 9 o'clock slot of the outlet. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 9 o'clock lead and insert it in the 3 o'clock slot leaving the 6 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. This has tested the hot legs with the ground.
Third step of test:
Put one lead in the 9 o’clock slot and one lead in the 3 o’clock slot. The meter should read about 228 to 242 volts AC. This is a final test, but does not indicate your trailer is wired for 220 volts AC.
Fourth step of test:
Put one lead in the 12 oclock slot and one lead in the 6 oclock slot. You should get no voltage reading.
This test will only tell you if you have good power at the pedestal. Some sort of surge protection is still highly recommended. I hope this is clear enough.
When you buy a meter, it doesn't have to be expensive but the metal tips on the leads should be the longest ones you can find. Sometimes, the 30 and 50 amp outlet contacts are set back in the plastic and are a little hard to make contact with. You might have to wiggle the leads a bit to make contact. If the readings you get are a couple of volts higher or lower it's not a big deal.
Jim
Contributed by MOCer NCFischers
First step of test:
Set the Multi-meter selector to the AC voltage setting with the number higher than 300 volts AC (some meters will set themselves automatically/some require DC or AC selection). Take the two test leads from your meter which are color coded black and red. Put one lead in the 12 o'clock slot and one in the 9 o'clock slot of the outlet, it makes no difference which lead (red or black) is inserted into either slot. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 9 o'clock lead and insert it in the 3 o'clock slot leaving the 12 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. This has tested the hot legs with the neutral.
Second step of test:
Put one lead in the 6 o'clock slot and one in the 9 o'clock slot of the outlet. The meter should read about 110 to 126 volts. Now take the 9 o'clock lead and insert it in the 3 o'clock slot leaving the 6 o’clock lead where it is. The reading should again read between 110 to 126 volts. This has tested the hot legs with the ground.
Third step of test:
Put one lead in the 9 o’clock slot and one lead in the 3 o’clock slot. The meter should read about 228 to 242 volts AC. This is a final test, but does not indicate your trailer is wired for 220 volts AC.
Fourth step of test:
Put one lead in the 12 oclock slot and one lead in the 6 oclock slot. You should get no voltage reading.
This test will only tell you if you have good power at the pedestal. Some sort of surge protection is still highly recommended. I hope this is clear enough.
When you buy a meter, it doesn't have to be expensive but the metal tips on the leads should be the longest ones you can find. Sometimes, the 30 and 50 amp outlet contacts are set back in the plastic and are a little hard to make contact with. You might have to wiggle the leads a bit to make contact. If the readings you get are a couple of volts higher or lower it's not a big deal.
Jim
Contributed by MOCer NCFischers
